Quickporch is a unique deck system. The order of assembly may seem odd, but it will assure the best results. Therefore, the perimeter will be suspended and assembled level with temporary props before anything else is attached to it.
Preparing to build your deck
Read all instructions BEFORE starting the project.
TOOLS NEEDED: Power driver with tips (including #2 square drive and 5/16” lag driver), saw (hand or power), level, tape measure, any square, and a shovel and tamping bar.
CLEAR all obstacles from the area where you intend to put the deck. Place the four perimeter pieces on the ground where you want the deck to sit. Determine which of the six –(6) stair options will work best for your application. Option 1 and 2 will require only one handrail on the stair while the other stair placement will require the second handrail kit, and may change your parts list.
MEASURE AND MARK. The back rim will go along the house, below the door. The side rims with a 2x2 cleat will attach to the ends of the back rim along the home. Use a tape measure to mark the house where the deck will begin and end. Also mark the desired length of the deck at both ends or mark one end and use a level to determine the other mark. This height may be from 1/2” to 7” below the door. We recommend 1-2” below an out swing door to allow for doormat and snow.
ASSEMBLY DETAIL INSTRUCTIONS FOR QUICKPORCH
1. Attach the back rim to the house. Be sure the back rim is right side up, with the joist hangers up toward the the top. Temporarily attach the back rim to the house with 2 – 1/2” screws or use “J” brackets. See fig 1. To use “J” brackets, place them so the bottom of the bracket is 5 1/2” below the marked height of the deck and at least 6” in from the ends of the deck. This bracket is especially helpful if the rim hands so low on the house that it is not possible to screw directly into the house. See fig 1.
2. Fasten side rims to back rim. Use 4 – 2 1/2” screws. Be sure to level each side after you have finished attaching them to the back rim. It is necessary to use some kind of temporary support to maintain the set height for the side. A 2x2 with a screw in it or a stack of blocks will do as long as the side is kept level. See fig 2.
3. Fasten front rim to side rims. IF the sides are kept level it is not necessary to level the front. NOW that you have the perimeter temporarily in place, you will have to assess what the posts will sit on. If all your posts are on concrete, asphalt or any hard surface, go on to step 4. If the posts are on grass or dire, then dig in some sort of block (tamp hole with tamping bar or post to settle it before placing a block in it. directly below the corner of the deck. Check your local building codes to determine what types of blocks may be used. Here are some possibilities 1) concrete blocks, 2) treated wood blocks, 3) “Bell” or pre-cast blocks, or 4) poured cement and metal post bases.
2. There will be a long post in all corners except if the stair is next to the home. Use an underdeck post for the corner next to the home. Measure the distance from the top of the rim to the ground, add 38” to determine the length for each post accordingly. Then cut each post to its corresponding length. See fig 3. Put the long posts in place and attach with the 4” lag screws through the rims. When cutting the underdeck post (short post), measure the distance from the top of the deck to the ground and subtract 1 3/8” to allow for the squares to sit flush with rim. Attach the short post with lag screws. See fig 7 for post legend.
3. BRACES. There are two braces for each corner post (a “right” and a “left”). Lay each set out ahead of time to get the “prettier” ones to the front. Use 4 – 2 1/2” screws on each brace. Place each brace flush with the outside of the post and inside the platform. See fig 3.
4. Center joists. Set each center joist in the “U” brackets of the front and back joists. Be sure to “crown” each joist. (Crowning means that the high side of the joist is up when looking at it from end to end.)
5. Squares. Place the deck squares on the completed supporting structure as indicated on the deck plan. It is crucial that right and left deck squares are set into positions indicated by the plan, in a parquet pattern. After the squares are set, drill one hole in each corner of every square. Using the 2 1/2” screws, screw each square into place ensuring that the gap between that remains uniform.
6. Railing. Place the 4” x 4” cut offs on the decking at wither end of the opening and set the guardrail on them to ensure proper spacing from the deck at both ends of the rail. Setting the “relief” of the rail is up to the installer. The lag screws attach through the last baluster of each rail into the post, and they should not be left too far out past the edge of the 4” x 4” post.
7-13 Stair. Refer to the Adjustable Stair Instructions
14. Post caps. Center on the 4” x 4” post and attach with 2 1/4” screws.